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Soil Blocking - What is it?

acrewoodflowers

"Are those brownies?" Its a question I'm frequently asked in the spring and fall. Why? Because I use a method called soil blocking to start all of my seedlings, and the trays of fresh soil blocks look like little fudgy brownies! Would y'all believe that my iPhone even auto categorizes pictures of soil blocks under "Food"?! 


Soil blocking is the process of using a soil blocking tool and special blend of blocking mix to create small blocks of soil - one block for each seed. It allows me to start thousands of seedlings within a few feet of space. I thought I'd use today's email to give y'all a little inside look at my favorite method for starting seeds. 


Can you see why people (and my phone) think these are brownies? This tray of 60 soil blocks can crank out 60 seedlings and it takes up 5x11" of space. I always start more seedlings that I need because not every seed will germinate and I can pick and choose the best plants.
Can you see why people (and my phone) think these are brownies? This tray of 60 soil blocks can crank out 60 seedlings and it takes up 5x11" of space. I always start more seedlings that I need because not every seed will germinate and I can pick and choose the best plants.

I blend together a mix of sifted peat moss, compost, and a nutrient blend containing things like green sand and rock phosphate. This special blend ensures the soil blocks have the necessary nutrients and retain enough moisture to sustain seed germination and growth.
I blend together a mix of sifted peat moss, compost, and a nutrient blend containing things like green sand and rock phosphate. This special blend ensures the soil blocks have the necessary nutrients and retain enough moisture to sustain seed germination and growth.

Once the blocking mix is finished, I add water until it's thoroughly wet. I create the blocks using this tool made in England called a soil blocker. I press it down into the blocking mix until all the chambers are full, then I compress the plunger and deposit the blocks onto the tray. Each block has a small divot on top where the seed goes.
Once the blocking mix is finished, I add water until it's thoroughly wet. I create the blocks using this tool made in England called a soil blocker. I press it down into the blocking mix until all the chambers are full, then I compress the plunger and deposit the blocks onto the tray. Each block has a small divot on top where the seed goes.

Trays are labeled with the variety they contain - a lesson I learned early on by trial and unfortunate error. I reuse these trays an average of 10 times before they have to be replaced. Washing them well after each round of seed starting.
Trays are labeled with the variety they contain - a lesson I learned early on by trial and unfortunate error. I reuse these trays an average of 10 times before they have to be replaced. Washing them well after each round of seed starting.
Once they're sown, soil blocks are placed on a seedling heat mat which maintains the soil temperature at just the right warmth depending on whether they're hardy or tender annuals. As soon as the seeds germinate, I turn the heat mat off and turn the grow lights on. Lights are on a timer set to 16 hours a day to ensure stocky, strong seedlings. Leggy, floppy seedling are a result of the plants reaching in search of light.
Once they're sown, soil blocks are placed on a seedling heat mat which maintains the soil temperature at just the right warmth depending on whether they're hardy or tender annuals. As soon as the seeds germinate, I turn the heat mat off and turn the grow lights on. Lights are on a timer set to 16 hours a day to ensure stocky, strong seedlings. Leggy, floppy seedling are a result of the plants reaching in search of light.
The roots of these zinnias are air pruned meaning roots hit the air and stop growing. The plant then just sends down another root. This results in tons of roots growing out and away from one another as soon as the seedling is planted.
The roots of these zinnias are air pruned meaning roots hit the air and stop growing. The plant then just sends down another root. This results in tons of roots growing out and away from one another as soon as the seedling is planted.

There are so many benefits to soil blocking but the main ones that attracted me to it are the ability to start many seedlings in a small space without the use of a greenhouse, and the superior health of the seedlings that are produced.


Seedlings started in conventional trays or pots don't send down as many roots and the ones they do hit the wall of the tray and begin growing around in circles, resulting in a root bound plant. They usually recover in the garden once planted, but they will be several weeks behind soil blocked plants and the roots will always have the memory of growing in a circle.


Soil blocking has always been my go-to and if you're into seed starting, definitely give it a try!

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